Does choosing colors confuse you,
    -or lead you astray?

Please read ahead to get a handle on options for your color choices!
One step would be to first decide how the room is going to be used, and then choose between an active, or a passive color

Colors mostly evoke subconscious responses in people are often considered either active, passive or neutral.
Active colors are listed as yellow and red because they tend to wake up a room, which makes them well-suited for offices or kitchens.
Passive colors are blue, green and purple, which create a calming backdrop and are ideal for bedrooms.

Neutral colors, such as browns, beiges, grays, whites and blacks, neither energize nor pacify. They’re perfect for bringing rooms together as well as fading the backgrounds in order to draw attention to artwork and furniture.
Spend some time to consider every Room (separately from color), and draw a blank slate in your mind.   Then you can ponder on making the room an active, neutral, or passive colored space.
Each room will have its own design features, such as size, carpet or wood flooring, wainscoting. These elements should be considered first as to how you can enhance them with color.
Passive colors tend to recede visually, meaning the walls will seem more distant, which helps small spaces seem larger.

Active colors make a large room appear warmer and more intimate, but can make a small room feel ‘closed in’.
You might also think about some accent walls.

As for sheen,
Use flat white, or off-white paint on ceilings to increase the impression of height,  and bright, gloss white paint on architectural details such as elaborate trim work.
Flat can be used in the Master Bedroom, because of a softer, more velvet texture, and satin should be used where more frequent washing will occur.

One overall choice would be to use various shades of your chosen color, which is referred to as a monochromatic color scheme.
Or you can combine your color with either its neighbor, or its opposite on the color wheel, deciding if you want a contrasting, or a complementary overall scheme.

If you’ve chosen a primary color, you could bring in the two other primaries for a triad, because all three are equidistant from each other on the color wheel. These primaries are Red, Yellow and Blue. All other colors come from these primary colors, and mixing them all together makes brown.

Another simple way to describe a color is hue. The three primary hues of red, yellow and blue are best enhanced by the secondary hues of green, orange and violet. These six hues can be mixed to produce an infinite number of tertiary shades. Tertiary shades are often used as accents, along with black, white, or grey.
A tint or shade of a color is commonly referred to as its tone. Decorating with colors within the same tonal range is common. Because colors that appear wildly different may have the same tone, tonal unity isn’t boring — it allows you to be adventurous, while preventing a ‘Clash’.

As with any color rule, however, remember that too much may be bad. If the tone pattern in a room is too similar, the overall effect may be heavy or too bland.

If You feel like you may be needing help in choosing colors or schemes, Timplex has partnered with the design professionals at a Sherwin Williams store in your area.
Just call the owner, Tim, and he will gladly guide you through this very important decision to erase lot of the fogginess of indecision when choosing the correct color for your space.

http://paintmyshack.com/2016/10/15/1432/

Applying exterior paint

Whenever you paint your home, it pays to use the correct products and procedures.
Keep in mind that there is always a learning curve when attempting something new, and often even when you have done it before.
This information comes from an article originally published in PPC Magazine.
Here is a guide to coating five of today’s most popular exterior surfaces.

Fiber-cement

Fiber-cement siding, a combination of Portland cement, ground sand, cellulose fiber and select additives, holds paint exceptionally well. The siding is available either unprimed or preprimed.

If improperly treated, cement-based products can be mildew magnets. A high quality exterior acrylic masonry primer such as Sherwin-Williams Loxon Masonry Primer will fortify the siding’s mildew and efflorescence resistance. Caulk at the butt joints and apply the finish coat.

Sherwin-Williams Duration® Exterior Latex Coatings are the best topcoat choices for new fiber-cement siding. Because they have a substantially higher film build than conventional paints, only one coat is necessary over a primed surface – and Duration is guaranteed not to peel or blister. Other high-quality exterior latex paints designed for cement-based building materials – such as Sherwin-Williams Loxon Masonry Topcoat – also perform well but will require two coats. Loxon can be brushed, rolled or sprayed – spraying is most common in new construction.

When repainting fiber-cement siding, pressure clean with a minimum of 2100 psi pressure to remove all dirt, dust, grease, oil, loose particles, foreign material and defective coatings. Rinse thoroughly and allow to dry. Scrape away any remaining peeled or checked paint, and sand those areas. Also sand any glossy surfaces to make them dull.

Unless the substrate is exposed, a primer is not required when repainting fiber cement. One coat of Duration is all that’s needed.

Cedar

Cedar shake or siding, as well as redwood, is best primed with an exterior oil-based wood primer (some regions must use a latex primer due to VOC regulations). A primer is essential – it will serve as a barrier coat to help prevent tannin bleed, a brownish or tan discoloration that can appear on a painted wooden surface. Before coating, make sure that new wood is dry enough to absorb sprinkled water before coating. Top the siding with one coat of Duration.

If you plan to stain the cedar, apply two coats of Sherwin-Williams WoodScapes Solid Color Acrylic Exterior House Stain. This waterborne product is easier to apply than alkyd or conventional latex stains – with no drips or runs. Available in acrylic solid colors or polyurethane semi-transparent shades, WoodScapes resists mildew and retains its color for several years.

One note of caution: Be careful if you decide to go with a semi-transparent stain because the shade of the substrate contributes to the final color, and the finished job may not look quite like what you had planned. It’s a good idea to test the stain in an inconspicuous place before applying en masse to make sure it will produce the color you want.

Another bit of advice: An acrylic solid color stain will offer best results for heavily knotted wood, as semi-transparent stains will not hide the knots completely.

If the cedar has never been painted or stained but has been exposed to the elements for more than 60 days, evaluate the level of decay before proceeding. Any loose, fibery, gray-looking areas should be lightly abraded prior to coating.

If the original paint is intact, cedar siding can be repainted with one coat of Duration.

Vinyl

Before painting vinyl siding, scrub with a warm, soapy water solution, rinse thoroughly and allow plenty of time to dry. Be alert for mildew as well; if present, use a bleach solution to eliminate prior to painting. Priming is not generally necessary if you use Duration or Sherwin-Williams SuperPaint Exterior Latex. Use one coat of Duration or two coats of SuperPaint. Apply with a brush, roller or sprayer as the job parameters dictate.

If the surface of the vinyl remains slick and ultra-smooth after you’ve cleaned it with a strong detergent, you’ll need to use a bonding primer such as Sherwin-Williams PrepRite Bonding Primer to achieve quality results.

Caution: Never paint vinyl siding a darker color than the original hue. Heat build-up can create heat distortion and cause the siding to buckle or warp. Also, if the siding manufacturer recommends against painting, there must be a good reason. Don’t paint it.

Aluminum

Aluminum siding should be power washed with the correct detergent to rid the surface of chalk, oil and other foreign materials prior to painting. If there are still dark spots on the surface, test for mold by applying a few drops of household bleach to the area. If the spots bleach away, they’re probably mildew. In that case, eliminate the rest with one part bleach to three parts water.

Unless it has a super-slick surface, aluminum siding rarely needs to be primed. Simply apply one coat of Duration by either brushing, spraying or rolling. Unless the surface is bent or damaged, you can achieve a terrific, factory-finished look by using Duration Satin.

Stucco and masonry

The trick with repainting stucco and masonry is to powerwash or clean the loose powdery surface well enough without destroying it. New stucco always should be primed or conditioned for optimal results. Since pH levels can be a concern with new stucco, make sure the primer can be applied to surfaces with a high pH level. This will minimize efflorescence problems later on. You’ll get maximum performance from Sherwin-Williams Loxon Masonry Primer. For the topcoat, use two coats of SuperPaint or one coat of Duration.

The condition of the substrate is critical when repainting. Stucco cracks will telegraph through the topcoat and should be repaired with patches and sealants prior to repainting. Repaint the substrate with SuperPaint or Duration. If the job calls for waterproof protection, go with an elastomeric coating such as Sherwin-Williams ConFlex XL High Build Coating, which also can cover and hide hairline cracks.

Brick should be allowed to weather for at least a year and then wire brushed to remove efflorescence. Treat the bare brick with one coat of Loxon Conditioner before painting with a masonry compatible latex paint like SuperPaint, or, better yet, Duration.

Prep Makes Perfect

Paint failure is generally a symptom of poor surface preparation. Thoroughly cleaning the surface assures proper bonding of the paint and helps you get the most from your topcoat. Other considerations:

Old paint: Make sure glossy surfaces of old paint films are clean and dull before repainting.

Wood rot: Fix the water or moisture problem before painting. You may want to call a carpenter.

Efflorescence: If you see white fluffy deposits of salt crystals on the surface, scrub them off before painting.

Mildew: If there is the appearance of dirt even after washing, chances are there is mildew on the surface. Scrub with a solution of one part bleach and three parts water. (Wear rubber gloves and eye protection.) Allow to stand on the surface for 10 minutes, then rinse thoroughly. Repeat as necessary. Allow the surface to dry for 48 hours before painting.

Weather: Never paint immediately after a rain, when rain is predicted or during foggy weather. As a general rule, humidity should be no more than 85 percent. Avoid painting when temperatures rise above 90° F or fall below 50° F, unless the products are designed to be used under those circumstances.

Using leftover Paint for touch-up

A Quick Look at Painting and Paint Storage

With the advancement of springtime in northern climes, many people are now beginning to consider freshening up their homes with a coat of paint.
At Timplex, we have been painting interiors this whole winter, as well as putting in estimates for exterior paint jobs this spring.
I often hear from customers something like, “I have paint left from the last paint job”
Now, I’m all in for using supplies that are on hand, and this can even work sometimes, yet there are times that it cannot and it is better not to try.

Storing paint for future use can normally be a good thing. The paint mixing formula is printed right onto a label placed on the lid of the paint can. This helps you tell what brand and color it is, along with the sheen of the paint. So if the paint is actually in useable condition, it may just need to be stirred and you are good to go. Other times, the paint was not stored correctly, which allows it dry out, or freeze, or the can may get rusty, or the labels may have become useless. Sometimes it will take a professional painter to know whether it is worthwhile to use the old paint or not.

Here are some professional tips for paint storage:

Wipe all paint residue from the groove and off the lid to get a better airtight seal.

Use a rubber mallet or block of wood on the lid when hammering it shut –  hammering improperly will bend the lid, preventing a good seal.

Don’t store paint in a hot attic or garage, or next to something such as a water heater or furnace.

Don’t store in areas susceptible to freezing, especially if it is latex or water-based paint.

When paint is stored properly, there are many factors that determine your being able to use the stored paint for “touch-ups”. This includes the cleanliness of the surface to be painted, deterioration of the existing paint, and any other breakdown that may have occurred to existing paint surfaces due to washing or cleaning fluids. Frequently, many factors will make it impossible to just give “Touch-ups”, and best results are achieved by painting the entire surface, whether it is a ceiling, wall, or trim, etc.

If you are even considering using paint of an unknown age and quality, just know that it is unlikely that the paint manufacturer will warranty the paint. There are too many variables to consider before anyone would lay their reputation on the line. Some contractors may feel comfortable using paint stored in your home if they know where, how, and what kind of environment it has been stored in, as well as the age of the paint (especially if they did the original job), but it is most often necessary to purchase more paint anyhow, due to the size of the surface to be repainted, and how many coats are needed.

We are always striving to gain new knowledge and techniques as the industry progresses, and we want to keep our customers informed also. If you are in Milwaukee or one of the surrounding counties, it is my hope that you keep Timplex in mind for your home painting and other maintenance needs.

Prepare House For Market

 

 

How to prepare your house for sale

Many say that ‘Curb Appeal’ is the key to selling your house on the real estate market.
But keep in mind that prospective buyers want to see your home in like new, or “showplace” condition.

Most buyers select their home by using more emotion than logic. If the place just “Feels Right”!
They may review the decision later and try to justify the decision with facts, so it’s important to make the house look great first.
Remember, you have just a few seconds to create a winning first impression. I have listed here 101 ways to prepare your house for sale and to help sell your home more quickly.

Starting with the outside, remember curb appeal is key!

The first impression people have of your home is what it looks like from the outside. Believe it or not, some buyers make a decision to keep on driving to the next property just by looking at the outside of the house. Here are some tips to make them want to come inside:

Spruce up the lawn by cutting, trimming, weeding and removing all yard clutter. A great-looking lawn makes a great first impression.

Weed and apply fresh mulch to flower beds – it gives a fresh and maintained look for a low cost.

Trim or prune all trees and bushes.

Apply a fresh coat of paint to wooden fences.

Power wash entire exterior, including driveway, walkways, patio and/or deck.

Consider painting if the house needs it, or if the color is “dated” – a fresh coat of paint on the outside can make the house look more fresh and better maintained.

Ensure all gutters and downspouts are clean and mounted correctly.

Paint the front door.

Buy a new welcome mat. Do not scrimp on price here.

Place living, potted flowers near the front door.

Plant some bright flowers in places that could use some brightening.

Tighten and clean all door handles.

Clean windows inside and out – make them sparkle.

Make sure your house numbers are easy to see, and consider getting new ones if it would improve the look from the street.

Now let’s go on inside!

The way you live in a home and the way you sell a home are two different things! Once your home is on the market it’s in direct competition with many other properties, and it needs to look like a model home. Here are tips on keeping the inside of your home looking its best.

The entryway sets the stage:

Replace the entrance light bulbs to brighten up the entry, and make sure the light is on if people are coming at dusk or after dark. replace low watteage bulbs with brighter ones.

Make sure the doorbell works.

Make sure the door is in perfect working order. No squeaking, jamming or sticking locks. Make it a pleasure to get into the house.

Make sure the entryway is free of clutter: shoes, coats, umbrellas and papers.

If you have an entry table or shelves keep them dust free and empty.

Make the front closet look spacious and uncluttered by keeping just a few items on hangars, -less than 1/3 full.

Tips for every room in the house:

Go through your home room by room and pack up your stuff. Staging means as clutter free as possible.

Evaluate the furniture in each room and remove anything that interrupts “the flow” or makes the room appear smaller. No large furniture pieces or numerous pieces.

Clean or paint walls and ceilings. Use a light, neutral color.
Try to appeal to the widest audience as possible.

If carpeting is in good shape, have it cleaned.
If not, replace it with off-white carpet, making the rooms look larger and cleaner.

If replacing the carpet pad, select a very thick one then install just a modest grade of carpeting.
The feel will be more plush and expensive..

Clean or refinish wood floors. Replace worn vinyl flooring if it has stains or lifting seams.

Pack everything from all closets that you don’t need. You want to create the perception of roominess.

Remove everything but a week’s worth of linens from the linen closet. Fold them neatly and color-coordinate them. This counts for more than you might think..

Remove out-of-season clothes from clothes closets. The more empty space, the better!

During the day, have all your curtains and blinds open. If the day is cloudy, turn on all lights as well.

Make sure blinds, shades and window coverings hang level. With no dust or cobwebs.

Brighter is better.
Upgrade all your light bulbs to at least 100 watts to make your house appear more inviting.

Replace any burned out light bulbs.

Clean all light fixtures and ceiling fans.

Remove any family photos you have displayed. Too much of your personality in view does not allow for the potential buyer to “mentally” move in.

Repair all plumbing leaks, including faucets and drain traps.

Make minor repairs (torn screens, sticking doors, cracked caulking).

Replace worn door knobs and hardware

Clean or replace discolored grout.

Replace broken tiles.

If you have pets, get rid of pet odors.

Make the most of your kitchen and dining room:

Make your kitchen look more spacious by removing everything from the counter like the coffeemaker, toaster, flour container, etc.

Your eat-in kitchen and dining room should have a table and chairs in it to showcase the rooms’ purpose.

Remove extra leaves from your dining room table to make the room look larger.

Set the dinner table or counter bar to help buyers envision the room.

Make sure the inside of your cabinets are organized and clean. Store non-essential items elsewhere to make the cabinets look more spacious.

If your cabinets show wear and tear, you might want to paint them. A simple trick to update the look of your cabinet doors is to replace your current knobs with new ones.

Make sure that your counter is spotless and shiny.

Remove notes, pictures and coupons from the refrigerator door.

Keep garbage and recycling bins out of sight.

Keep the exotic spices and fish to a minimum when cooking the night before a showing. Work towards achieving a “clean” smell.

Get rid of kitchen odors by pouring hot salt water down the drain twice a week. Also, grind some lemon rind in the disposal.

Help buyers see themselves in the living room:

Take down personal photographs and family items that create the sense that this is your home. You don’t want the buyer wondering, “Who lives here?” You want the buyer to see themselves living there.

If you have a favorite “old” chair that doesn’t go with the rest of the furniture, remove it. No Large, overstuffed pieces to attract the eyes.

Clean your fireplace.

During “showings” turn on all lights and lamps.

If your furniture shows the effect of raising kids or if pets have ruined the rugs and upholstery, think about storing or removing your existing furniture. Buy, borrow or rent what you need.

Have your DVD collection, CDs and video games out of sight.

Open the drapes and blinds. Nothing is more depressing than walking into a home where shades, curtains and drapes are closed.

Remove all knick-knacks under 10 inches tall.

Make the bathrooms sparkle:

Put the trash can under the vanity to clear floor space to make the bathroom appear as big as possible. Always empty bathroom trash cans before showings.

A new shower curtain is a great investment – very little money for a big impact.

Things like toilet cleaners, plungers, and hampers add clutter; hide them all while you’re selling your house.

Keep all reading material out of the bathroom.

Place personal items (such as hairdryers, makeup kits, and hairbrushes) in drawers.

Hang matching new towels; go for the best-looking towels you can. Like shower curtains, they add a nice impact.

Remove everything from the countertop, except pretty soap sets, candles or fresh flowers.

Check the faucets for leaks, drips or disrepair. Repair or buy new faucets if they are leaky or worn out.

New silicone beading can do wonders for your shower, tub and sink area…especially if the caulking is stained or cracking.

Shine your faucets and knobs and use cleaner to prevent water spots.

Keep your shower and tub spotless. Buyers will often look behind the curtain. Keep shampoos and soaps to a minimum.

Scrub tiles and bleach – or replace – the grout so it all sparkles.

Replace or paint the vanity if it shows excessive wear and tear. Replacing knobs can give an updated look to an older vanity.

Make the bedrooms look big:

Remember that buyers love to snoop and are likely to look in your closets. Make sure the closets are as spacious looking as they can be. Remove all the clothes, shoes, and items that you won’t be using right away.

Candles and fresh flowers are excellent accessories on bedroom furniture.

New bedspreads or quilts make a bedroom look inviting.

Make your bed look pretty and make sure the bedspread or quilt fits the bed properly and hangs low enough to cover the view under the bed. Buyers won’t look under the bed, so you can store other non-essential items there.

Put away the stacks of reading material on night stands and leave room for one good book.

In kids’ rooms, posters, photos, drawings and awards are all personal items that should be taken down for showing the house. You want the buyers to imagine the rooms as their own.

Put away all items that are hanging off the backs of doors. Cluttered and clanking doors often make the room feel smaller – especially if they don’t allow the door to open all the way.

Hang your clothes by category: all blouses together, all shirts together, buttoned and facing the same direction.

In kids’ bedrooms, be sure to put the toys in boxes or bins, and slide them under the bed.

Items that you don’t need should be taken out of the closet to make them more spacious. If you need to, get a storage space for them.

Coordinate your clothing in your closets and line shoes up neatly so it looks as organized as possible.

Create a clutter-free home office:

Store all the files and paperwork you don’t need for everyday function.

Remove big, bulky filing cabinets that take up a lot of space and store them somewhere else to make the office look bigger.

Clean everything off the desk surface, leaving only your computer and desk lamp. A neat desktop makes the work space look more functional.

Store all personal and confidential or client information out of sight. Set up a password protected screensaver on your desktop.

Weed out the postings on bulletin boards or wall organizers. A few things are okay to make the office look organized and functional, but an overcrowded bulletin board looks crowded.

If your office is a part of another room, make sure it doesn’t overpower the main function of the room. If it’s in the dining room, consider setting up temporary space elsewhere.

Make the most of the basement/laundry spaces:

Tidy up and organize your basement. Discard, donate or recycle items you can give away.

If you have unfinished concrete floors, paint the concrete to give it a cleaner look.

Be sure to clean and polish the washer and dryer to give them a bright and shiny look.

Put all detergents, laundry items and irons out of sight. Remove any residue that may have accumulated in the laundry sink.

A bright throw rug in front of the washer and dryer will often help cheer up unfinished laundry rooms.

Finally, tackle the garage

The garage is usually the catch-all area where everything goes that has no other place to go, so it’s usually a mess. If your garage isn’t neat, no buyer would surmise that you take good care of the whole house. You’re going to say I’m going to extremes but believe me, this works every time.

Empty everything out of the garage. Hose down the floor, and if there are stains remaining, paint it porch gray.

Paint the garage walls off-white using a flat latex paint.

After the paint is dry – put everything back in the garage piece by piece and throw out what you won’t be taking with you. Then organize what’s left.

If you have a storage shed, organize it the same way and if it needs a coat of paint or stain, do it.

Use an open bag of charcoal to absorb moisture in the storage shed.

If you have too much “stuff,” rent a storage unit and store it there.

Remember that Timplex is “More Than A Painter!”
The owner, Tim Laur will help you prepare your house for market with friendly and hassle-free service

 

Which Primer To Use ??

The question often arises: What’s the Difference between choices of Primers?

Here in this blog I will attempt to explain the difference between latex primer, oil-based primer and shellac-based primers and how you can choose the right one for the job,

or,
in other words, this is a primmer on primers ! (sorry, couldn’t resist)
For every interior and exterior paint job, you have to choose between Latex, or Oil-based paint.  -Latex paint is most often preferred, because it emits fewer odors than oil-based paint, and it cleans up much more easily.
In one area, however, oil-based products still hold their own over latex, and that is: primers.

There also is another option when choosing a primer: shellac-based primers. Any of these three primers can be used under latex topcoats.

You will need to choose a primer based on the state and condition of the substrate to be primed as well as its location. Before you open the can, or even make your purchase, you want to be sure to completely prep the surface that will be primed. There is no primer that can perform well if the surface is just not ready for painting.
Here now are the three choices available to consumers when choosing a primer:

First off, we have Latex Primers.
Latex primers are good for wood that is in good condition. These products will remain flexible after drying, which is important during expansion and contraction of the structure, especially exteriors. However, they will not perform their best if they are applied when the temperature is not between 50° – 90°F.  And, Latex primers also just do not perform well on weathered or damaged wood. Neither will they block knots or stop the bleed-through of tannins found in cedar and redwood, and they will raise the wood grain more than oil-based or shellac-based primers.
Cleanup is easily accomplished with plain water.

Next we have, Oil-Based.
Oil-based primers are much better than latex at sealing over nails, covering over the knots in bare wood, and also blocking stains or tannin from bleeding through. They are preferred for sealing window muntins that will be in contact with oil-based window glazing. These primers penetrate wood more readily than latex primers, which makes them a much better choice when preparing weathered wood. The best penetration is achieved because it is a slow-drying primer, but there is a trade-off due to the longer wait before topcoating.
Oil-based primers will continue to harden as they age, which can be a problem with exterior applications. This is because as the wood underneath expands and contracts, the primer remains rigid, and the older it is the dryer and more brittle it becomes, which weakens the bond the wood has with the paint.
Cleanup is also more intensive and costly, since it is most often done with mineral spirits.

Last but not least, we have Shellac-Based
Because there is a solvent in shellac-based primers that is based on denatured alcohol, such primers are often used to kill bacteria that causes certain odors.
They are also great at covering knots, heavy stains and tannin bleed. If you have a problem stain from a knot bleeding through or from a water stain that other primers will not stop, then you should switch to shellac-based primer.
Because shellac will become soft in high temperatures, its use on exterior surfaces is best limited to spot-priming. On the other hand, shellac-based primer is the only primer that can be applied in freezing temperatures.
They do not penetrate wood as deeply as latex or oil primers, since they are the fastest-drying primers available.
Cleanup uses denatured alcohol or an ammoniated detergent.

Color Visualizer Tools

This is a list of sites posted for your convenience, they are the four top paint manufacturers in my world.
Not listed in any order, they are, 

Benjamin Moore, 
Pratt & Lambert,
Hallman Lindsay,
Sherwin Williams  

 http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/for-your-home/rooms-by-color

http://www.prattandlambert.com/color-and-inspiration/

http://www.hallmanlindsay.com/

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/special-offers/sales-and-coupons/?WT.srch=1&WT.mc_id=OPT%20PPC%20DIY&mkwid=1iNgerS4_dc&pcrid=1027530583&pkw=%2Bsherwin%20%2Bwilliams%20%2Bcolor%20%2Bvisualizer&pmt=e

 

 

Reviews on Yelp

When I first think of “Yelp”, what comes to mind is a sharp cry of pain emitted from a puppy if you step on its paw, and would have very little to do with interior home painting or exterior house painting.. The aforementioned Yelp I am engaging within this blog is not nearly as shrill, but still clamors for your immediate attention, but in an electronic format.

“YELP” is an international corporation headquartered in San Francisco, CA, which was created, and continues to exist as a way to connect people with great local businesses.
Yelp succesfully markets and hosts Yelp.com and the Yelp mobile app, which publish consumer reviews pertaining to local businesses such as Painting contractors, and also restaurants and reservation services such as SeatMe. They also provide data about businesses, such as health inspection scores.
The primary objective is accomplished by providing people who are looking at hiring or buying within specific trades with as much trustworthy information as possible.This is a Win-Win for everyone, because:

  If consumers cannot rely on relevant content that is pertinent, current, and up to date,, they will stop using Yelp, and everyone suffers, because then,
Consumers wouldn’t have a viable resource they can turn to in making important spending decisions,
and contractors would lose would-be customers because they are not visiting their business listing.
-This is actually a detraction of value for both parties, -a “Lose – Lose situation”, because small businesses spend money and time for online advertising, and if less is spent in these areas, the savings are passed along to the consumer.
And this, good people, is why I want to stress that whenever you receive exemplary service or quality, and at a price that is actually reasonable, you should immediately post a review on Yelp,

This helps not only the people who are in the market for service, but it helps the one who gave you the good service in the first place. And after all, if someone leaves you with feelings of satisfaction after they do interior painting, or exterior painting on your home, would you not want them to  have an easy time of finding the next customer? Or, even to have the next customer find this contractor with as little effort as possible?

 

Deck and Porch Care FAQ

It is that time of year again, and before you know it, the annuals will have all been planted.
So before that happens, don’t you want to sit back on the deck and enjoy the hues and fragrance of nature this summer?

This exercise will deff be more enjoyable if your deck has had its proper maintenance already performed

Here are some quick answers to some pertinent questions about spring deck care to help you out.

Q.) The exterior concrete deck I plan to stain is old and porous -How should I best handle this situation ?
A.)  As always, you want to make sure the surface is completely clean and free of any grease or contaminants that could interfere with the adhesion.
To make sure there is not a sealer on the concrete, just sprinkle some water on it. If the water soaks in, that is the indication there is not a sealer on the concrete. Once clean, dry and sound, stain away.

If water beads up, that indicates there is a sealer present and you’ll need to remove it. If not completely removed, your new stain, sealer or coating will likely not adhere, and will be prone to premature failure.

Q.) 

If a deck is already stained, does the stain I put on it have to be the same kind — in other words, is a water-based stain compatible with an oil-based formula?

Paint blog when to paint

If you are a homeowner, chances are you have considered the subject of Exterior Painting, at least once.
I have heard of some seriously considering doing this in the Fall and Winter months but are worried about the outcome, and wisely so. Then they learn that it’s not possible due to moisture and cold.
So the Next Question that naturally arises, is:


What is the best painting season for a house exterior?

It is true that modern paints and improved paint technology lets you paint outside at temps as low as 35 degrees F (as long as you buy paint that carries a low-temp rating).
I do not like to go below 40 degrees, just for personal preference of being on the safe side, and the vicissitudes of Wisconsin weather are unpredictable and unforgiving.
In the Milwaukee area, the average first frost comes around October 15. Yet, I have painted exteriors up to Nov 1st and felt quite comfortable doing so, while watching the weather forecasters promising that the low temp will not dip below 35
 in the pre-dawn hours, and enjoyed sunny, mild fall weather throughout the shortened workday,.I have wished some days would be never-ending as I happily wielded brush and roller behind my spray rig.